17. Lower the transmission down enough so you can access and remove the 2 transmission cooler lines. You may want to plug the openings on the transmission.

18. Remove the dip stick from the transmission and plug the hole. The top right transmission to engine bolt holds the dip stick in place)

19. Disconnect the 2 transmission cooling lines from the transmission. You can also disconnect them from the radiator. You can now remove the cooling lines from the car. You can cut them in half and pull them out.

20. Finish fishing the TV cable down from the engine compartment.

21. Lower down the transmission to the floor and slide it out from underneath the car. (Hold the torque converter in place to prevent it from falling out)

23. Install the new pilot bushing into the crank. Gently tap it into the crank by using a large socket and hammer. You can put a little hi-temp grease into the pilot shaft. Remember to use a LITTLE grease.

28. Install the bell housing to the engine block.

29. Tighten down the bolts to the recommended torque specifications.

30. Moving top side to the interior. Remove the automatic shifter knob and plate. Remove the radio trim plate.

 31. Open the console lid and remove the 2 10MM screws that hold the rear of the console to the floor. Remove the 3 7MM screws that hold the heater controls and the 4 7MM screws that hold the radio. Remove the radio. Remove the 1 10MM screw that holds the console to the shifter. Remove the 7MM screws that hold the upper console to the lower console.

32. Remove the power window buttons and any other accessories. Remove the upper console from the car and then remove the lower console. Lay the heater controls on the floor. Disconnect all cables and wiring from the shifter. Remove the 4 10MM bolts that hold the shifter to the floor. Remove the shifter from the car. Remove the shifter cable from the car as well.

Using a tape measure. Measure back 22 ½? from the face of the bell housing and mark the floor pan with a marker. That will be your shifter center point. From that point measure 3? front to rear for a total of 6? and 2 ½? left to right for a total of 5?. To mark the four corners of the hole use a drill with a 1/8? bit and drill up through the floor pan. Back inside the car you can use a cutting tool to cut the floor pan. We lined the area with wet towels to protect the carpet.

34. Install the transmission. With the hole cut you can now place your transmission into the bell housing. It should fit into your newly cut hole. I found this to be the challenging part of the swap. After the trans is fitted into position you can install the bolts that hold the trans to the bell housing and than in stall the trans cross member and mount. You can now install the drive shaft as well.

NOTE: T56 6-speeds require a special crossmember. We sale this crossmember for $100. see our catalog or call for details.

36. At this point you need to remove the 5 bolts under the dash that hold the automatic brake pedal in place. 4 of these bolts hold the power booster to the firewall. You will also have to remove the clip that holds the brake rod to the pedal as well. Unplug any wiring that may be attached to the brake pedal assembly.

37. There is one bolt that holds the automatic brake assembly to the underside of the dash. You will need to move some wiring around but you can get to the 14mm bolt with a long extension. With all 5 bolts removed and all wiring detached remove the pedal assembly. I did not find this part to difficult.

40. I started with the u-bolt holes that hold the clutch master cylinder in place. Try using a small drill bit first as a guide then use the proper size drill bit to create the finished hole.

41. The large hole in the center is a 1 ½?x2?. I drilled the lower portion then I filed out the upper part of the hole. I had to do this. The clutch master cylinder would not fit in the hole until I filed the hole upward about a ½ ?.

46. You are now ready to install the clutch and brake pedals up under the dash. With the brake power booster installed first you can see the 4 bolts that hold the pedals to the booster. This was not as bad as I thought it was going to be. Once the pedals are in place get all the nuts started. Don?t forget the upper bolt. The hardest part was tightening the 2 upper nuts that hold the pedals to the booster.

47. I found it easier to lower the steering column down and access the nuts with a very long extension and a swivel. That seemed to be the easiest way to access them. Be sure to tighten the steering column when you are done with those 2 upper bolts. Remove the 2 nuts from the clutch master cylinder and place the 2 braces onto the bolts and re-place the nuts and tighten them down as well.

48. Connect the brake master cylinder rod and the clutch cylinder rod to the pedals. Install any clips required to hold the rods to the pedals.

49. From under the car you can now install the clutch fork slave cylinder. Guide the slave cylinder to the clutch fork. Attach the slave cylinder and the heat shield to the bell housing. You can now test the clutch pedals for movement at the clutch fork. Be sure fill the reservoir with the proper fluid before testing the pedals. The hydraulic clutch assembly is self adjusting.

50. Back inside the car you can now finish wiring up the backup lights and the neutral safety switch. The back lights for the manual trans work via a connection on the outside of the trans case on the drivers side. You will need a connector that works with the 2 prong connection on the trans. Locate the 2 wires that operated the backup lights at the automatic shifter. Cut and splice them onto the new wire and connector. There will be a hole in the floor that the automatic shifter cable went thru. I use a large grommet and ran the new backup wiring thru the existing shifter cable hole.

51. Locate the large yellow and purple wires that where used by the automatic shifter. These are the neutral safety wires you will need to splice into so the clutch safety switch will work properly. The manual pedals should have a switch on them that operates as a neutral safety switch when the clutch pedal is engaged. in this picture you can see the yellow and purple wires running from the pedals over to the console area where the automatic neutral safety switch was.