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Pro 5.0 Install Guide 

This is a high quality shifter that is fairly easy to install.  I highly recommend this brand shifter as a replacement to the stock or Hurst Shifter.  I have this in my Ram Air. 

 

Specs:  The Pro 5.0 has a lightweight aluminum base and all steel internal mechanism.  The top part is also steel where the stops are.  The stops are there to prevent damage to your transmission when you shift really hard like I do. The stops take the brunt of the gear slamming and keeps your from over extending and bending the shift forks inside the transmission.  It also has a spring loaded to center the shifter. 

 

Step 1:  Disassemble the Console:  You need to disassemble the small and large console and remove your shifter knob.  To remove the shifter knob turn it counter clockwise.  (It may be a little though to remove at first because they use a thread lock or sealant on it from the factory.) Next you need to remove your ash tray and empty out your center console.  Then remove the 2 screws from either side of the front console down where your feet go and remove all the screws from inside the console storage area. 

 

The center console comes apart in two pieces. The two smaller screws inside the console storage compartment hold this top-most section on. Once you have removed those screws, lift up to remove this top part. You do not have to remove the rubber boot that went around the shifter. This will all slide over it. Just make sure you have removed the shift knob before doing this step. When you get the smaller part almost all the way off, you'll notice it's connected by wires going to the cigarette lighter, ashtray light, and to the traction control switch if you have one. These clip on with a simple clip lock, and pressing in the lock part with your thumb will release them. 

 

The ashtray bulb clip is a little different. In this case you won't disconnect the wire to the bulb, you just simply remove the whole thing, bulb and all. The bulb clips in with a plastic clip that's easily removed. The picture to the left is the square plastic area where the bulb mounted.

 

Once you have the small upper console out, you can continue to remove the lower console. You'll find a bolt in the middle of the console approximately where the ashtray used to be. This will be the last bolt you have to remove to get the lower console out.

Once you have the bolt removed, you'll have to release the emergency brake lever so that you can pull it straight up, to get the console out. There's a bit of a trick to this... if you study the top picture to the right, you'll see that the E-Brake lever has a steel cog with teeth on it, and another metal catch piece that is spring loaded to engage the lever with the cog. All you have to do is get a screwdriver, gently spread the rubber guides of the console so you can see down along the E-Brake lever, and push the screwdriver on the backside of that small spring-loaded lever. This will disengage it from the cog, and allow you stand the E-Brake lever straight up. Once you have done that, simply lift the larger console off, and set it aside. If your vehicle has the accessory power socket in it at the front of this console, you'll have to disconnect the wires to it first.

Step 2:  Removing the Stock Shifter: Now that you have that out of the way, let's remove the stock shifter by loosening the two screws on the side, and sliding the stock shifter handle off. There are seven screws holding the rubber boot down. Loosen and remove these screws. Once the screws are out, gently pry up in one corner to get the rubber boot loose, and then remove it. 

You'll see four 13mm bolts holding the stock shifter in. Once you get the bolts loose, you'll most likely have to pry lightly to get the shifter base off. Mine was held on with RTV Sealant from the factory, so it'll take a little prying. There is a factory pry spot on either side of the shifter. You can see the tab in the picture to the left, and me prying on the picture to the right. I used a small pry bar against the tab on the passenger side to gently pry it off. Be careful not to get dirt inside the shifter mechanism area as it can get down into the tranny from here.

You'll have to scrap off the gasket material from around the housing and make sure it's real clean before you continue to install your new shifter. I used a screwdriver to get most of it off, and a good rag to clean the remaining RTV Sealant from the area. Please be careful not to get any down inside there. If you do, just use a clean rag to wipe it out.

Step 3:  Installing your Pro 5.0:  First put a small thin bead of sealant around the area, and put your new shifter on top. Next install your shifter base, and tighten down the four bolts.   After you get that all done. It's time to reassemble it all. Big console goes back in first, making sure you hook up the electrical connections. Followed by the smaller console. The smaller top console pretty much just snaps in place, and then you put in the two small screws back in the storage compartment. As soon as you push the E-Brake lever down, it's back working again. That's it... go for a drive and enjoy your new shifter!!

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